Web Site Exclusives (scroll down for more)
Growers and Vintners Gather for Oregon Wine Symposium
Hot topics include water management, capitalizing on Oregon Wine Month
By Susan G. Hauser
March 4, 2014
Everyone was talking about the rain. That was not unusual in Portland, where rain is a common topic of conversation, but it held a different meaning for attendees of the Oregon Wine Symposium, held Feb. 25-26 at the Oregon Convention Center.
According to Dr. Greg Jones, professor and research climatologist in Southern Oregon University’s environmental studies department, monsoon conditions stemming from a typhoon in the western Pacific Ocean hit the Northwest last September, making it the wettest September on record. Fortunately for winegrowers, October was one of the driest on record.
“September stunk; October saved the day,” was how one grower summed it up for Jones.
Jones started off the second day of the conference with a climatology report, followed later in the afternoon by a practical session on vineyard water management, with Luisa Ponzi, winemaker at Ponzi Vineyards in Sherwood, and winemaker John Quinones of RoxyAnn Winery in Medford. With added input from Steve Price of Price Research Services, the two winemakers discussed solutions for too much and too little rain.
Improving Oregon Wine Month
In anticipation of another good year for Oregon wine, a panel comprised of Dewey Weddington of the Oregon Wine Board and wine sales managers from various aspects of the industry – including a distributor, a winery, a restaurant, a grocery store and a wine bar – discussed the upcoming Oregon Wine Month in May. Each offered tips on how wineries can piggyback on the state’s marketing campaign to best promote their wines.
Weddington admitted that last year’s Oregon Wine Month campaign fell flat. It focused on a three-hour public wine tasting in downtown Portland that drew little response and lost money. This year the emphasis is on marketing and on-air advertising. “Everything is geared toward pointing people to wineries or to the Oregon Wine Month page at Oregonwine.org,” he said.
Panelists advised vintners to zero in on the most interesting aspects of the winery, the place, the people or history, and convey that in a brief but engaging story that will compel shops and restaurants to carry their wine and will make consumers want to buy it.
“The wine tastes better if there’s a good story,” said Dan Mages, wine manager of the Urban Farmer restaurant at The Nines Hotel in Portland.
Water into Wine
At the session titled “Water into Wine,” Steve Price noted that until recently, winemakers and growers weren’t giving water enough attention. “Water got left out of the textbooks, although it’s a main component of wine.”
He added, “Water is one of the easiest compounds I work with, but it’s right up there with Brix in importance.”
Quinones worked in Napa Valley for more than 20 years before moving to Southern Oregon where, he said, the humidity is unusually low. He said he is careful to monitor the moisture in the soil of the Rogue Valley, noting, “Dehydration is the bane of quality winemaking.”
Ponzi had the opposite problem, particularly during last year’s soggy September. Still, she said, “I much prefer rain over heat because there’s more you can do.”
One solution she found to deal with too much surface water was to hire a helicopter to fly low over the vineyards and blow off the water. “It’s quick and not too expensive,” she said, quoting the cost at $500 for one hour, covering 20 acres.
However, an audience member said that when he tried that, the helicopter “blew down the whole damn trellis.”
Ponzi also said that in 2013, a high-dilution year, she did up to a 30% saignée. “If you have a rosé program, that’s great,” she said, in reference to the technique that involves removing a percentage of the juice from the must. She said she freezes the juice, concentrates it and adds it back to the fermenter, along with added sugar.
Making wine in a dry year is more difficult, she said. “You run the risk of making wines that are out of balance.” She said she believes in adding water, “the earlier the better. Deal with the chemistry later, if you need to make adjustments.”
But Jones, in his climatology report, predicted that Oregon winemakers will experience a slightly cooler spring with near-normal precipitation, and a dry summer that is warmer than average. “The Old Farmer’s Almanac” for 2014 is in agreement, he said, although it’s calling for another wet September.
“If it rains in September,” said Jones, “it’s their fault, not mine.”
Chardonnay in Focus at Washington Grape Grower conference
Changing perceptions of the state’s most-produced grape variety
by Sean P. Sullivan
February 7, 2014
“I see chardonnay at the crossroads,” said Seattle Times writer Andy Perdue at the 31st annual Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers conference. “Washington is becoming a red-dominated wine region.” The conference, which took place this week in Richland, Wash., had more than 2,200 attendees and 158 exhibitors.
Though it might come as a surprise to many, chardonnay is typically Washington State’s most-produced grape variety, occasionally giving up the top spot to riesling. However, cabernet sauvignon, which has more acreage in the state than either of those varieties, trailed chardonnay in production by a mere 1,000 tons in 2012. Some expect cabernet to take the top spot when 2013 production numbers are released later this month.
“I think there’s a perception question about where chardonnay sits (in Washington),” said Glenn Proctor, a global wine and grape broker at Ciatti Company in San Rafael, Calif. He noted that many already think of Washington as a cabernet sauvignon state despite chardonnay’s prominence.
Proctor said that having perceived quality and a well-defined style for chardonnay were critical to Washington’s long-term success, saying of California’s top regions, “All have an identity with consumers and recognized styles.”
As Washington seeks to establish an identity for its chardonnay, Kevin Mott of Woodward Canyon noted that style is not static. “Deciding which style as a winemaker is an evolution,” he said. “Our style has changed dramatically over time,” he said of Woodward Canyon, noting that the winery had moved toward using less new oak to make the wines more food friendly. “The market is ever changing. You have to make a style you’re happy with as a winery and go find people that like that style.”
In Washington, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, the parent company of Chateau Ste. Michelle as well as a number of other wineries and brands, dominates chardonnay production. David Rosenthal, assistant winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle, said that stylistically the structure of Washington chardonnay tends to be lighter than its California counterparts and subsequently required a more judicious use of new oak. “Washington can’t handle the same amount of oak as some other areas of the world,” he said.
Co Dinn, formerly of Hogue Cellars and now of Co Dinn Consulting, said he believes it is critical for Washington to identify and play to its strengths. “To me the question is really not whether we can or cannot make a certain style,” he said. “We can make any style out there. The key question is identifying our natural advantages, where they lie, and what styles we can make consistently well year in and year out.”
Despite chardonnay’s 50-year history in Washington, Dinn said he believes the exploration is truly just getting started. “I think we’ve just begun to scratch the surface of the sites that are appropriate for chardonnay in the wider areas of the state,” he said.
David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars in Healdsburg, Calif., suggested that the emphasis in Washington should be on identifying cooler vineyard locations. “It seems to me that there isn’t so much discrimination in terms of where chardonnay is grown (in Washington),” Ramey said. “The history of chardonnay in the last 20 years in Napa and Sonoma is a march toward the ocean. That’s where our cooling influence comes from. Chardonnay does better, up to a limit, in a cooler site.”
Ste. Michelle’s Rosenthal agreed. “I think one of the keys is going to be finding cooler vineyard sites for chardonnay,” he said. Rosenthal also noted the need for improved farming practices.
Ramey, who produces 40,000 cases of wine annually at his winery, 60% of it chardonnay, rejected the trend in the United States toward stainless steel chardonnays. “Stainless steel chardonnay is the wrong answer to excessively oaked chardonnay,” he said. “The answer to excessively oaked wines is to use less new oak. And then the answer to excessively buttery chardonnays is battonage, is lees contact.”
Ramey provided advice to Washington wineries about how to grow their brands nationally. “I believe brands are built on-premise,” he said. “If you want respect, you have to be at the fine restaurants.” He also noted the importance of getting in front of buyers, saying, “Marketing is shoe leather.”
Ultimately, however, Ramey said there was only one path to success for Washington chardonnay if it is to ever emerge from cabernet sauvignon’s shadow. “The best way to grow your brand and brand Washington is quality, quality, quality, quality,” he said.
Silicon Valley Bank Forecasts 6%-10% U.S. Sales Growth for Fine Wine in 2014
Annual report predicts stable year ahead
January 16, 2014
On Jan. 16, Silicon Valley Bank (SVB) released its annual “State of the Wine Industry” report for 2013-2014. Based on research, in-house expertise and a survey of nearly 650 West Coast wineries, the report addresses trends and critical issues facing the U.S. wine industry.
“Despite news to the contrary in recent months, wine supply is in balance heading into 2014 and we expect the highest rate of sales growth since the recession, despite a tough economy,” said Rob McMillan, founder of Silicon Valley Bank’s Wine Division and author of the report.
While he pointed out that ample supply and stable pricing will benefit consumers in the coming year, McMillan predicted that increased grape costs and flat consumer pricing will mean lower profitability for wineries.
The report’s key findings and predictions include:
- In the short term, demand will continue to grow and producers will have limited pricing power.
- Baby Boomers’ declining demand for wine will not be immediately replaced by Millennials’ demand, impacting the ability for wineries to sustain their current rate of growth.
- Expect final numbers on the 2013 harvest to reach 3.94 million tons, the second-largest harvest on record in California after 4 million tons were harvested in 2012.
- Sales growth in fine wine is predicted to increase 6%-10% in 2014 – the first increase in three years.
- Bottle pricing will remain stable, increased grape and bulk wine costs are not being passed onto the consumer, therefore winery gross profits will decrease.
- Luxury wines and $10-$18 bottles will see greatest growth in demand.
- Mergers and vineyard acquisitions will continue at a record pace.
After short harvests in 2010 and 2011, the 2012 SVB report warned of a coming wine shortage. However, ideal weather in 2012 along the entire West Coast led to a vintage year characterized by very large yields and great quality – the largest crop on record for California. A similar situation appears to have arisen in 2013, with SVB predicting the second-largest crop in California’s history. “Based on conversations with AVA associations, wineries, growers and survey information, we believe 2013 will probably come in around 3.94 million tons,” the 2014 report states. “But even with a second near-record harvest, the industry appears balanced with current supply.
The report predicts that in 2014, the U.S. will see the slowing of corporate mergers and acquisitions, an increase in corporate investment, decline in government support, slowing of the gains in housing values, continuation of increased regulation, higher taxes and increasing GDP growth year-over-year.
SVB expects to see growth in consumer wealth and spending, a pick-up in job creation and hiring with more predictable monetary and fiscal policy, as well as stable interest rates through the entire year. More difficult to predict, however, are certain “wild cards,” including gas prices, the small possibility of a stock market bubble, and political unrest stemming from the divergence between the wealthy and middle class. Unforeseen political events could also result in a decrease in market stability.
Factors Affecting Planting Decisions
According to SVB, a number of factors will affect vineyard planting decisions in the coming year. An increase in bulk wine imports, for example, could mean that less domestic supply will be needed. Meanwhile, land values are increasing in the San Joaquin Valley and crops such as nuts and citrus fruits are proving to be attractive economic options when compared to wine grapes.
Access to water will also be a major factor, particularly in California’s North Coast region. River flows, ground water, and water storage are each reaching historic lows, and storage is currently at about 35% of normal. Snowpack is the real concern as current estimates place water content for the end of the season at the lowest point since the drought of the mid-1970s. “The situation does not look good for our farmers in the Central Valley in particular, but everyone will be hurt if the snowpack doesn’t get some above-average dumps in the next several months,” the report warns.
Even so, SVB reports that overplanting could become a problem, as North Coast growers replant vineyards and increase the supply of fine wine production by planting more grapes in Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake counties. “Recent additional plantings can probably be accommodated, but an increase in the pace of planting could tip the scale to overplanting,” the company states.
Wineries’ Financial Performance
There was growth in the fine wine business in 2013, with revenue growth through the nine months ending September 30 of 6%. Symphony IRI data for 12 months in off-premise accounts for the period ending November, shows revenue growth of 7% with 8% of growth in direct-to-consumer sales after a 1% growth rate in November compared to the same period one year earlier.
SVB predicts that the U.S. wine industry will see consistently increasing direct sales cresting $1.5 billion for the first time in history. According to the report, “This is a trend that should continue for the foreseeable future as larger wine companies start to jump on the band wagon and increase their efforts in direct sales.”
Overall, in 2013 there was positive sales growth, but the growth rate was lower and there was no improvement in profitability, the SVB report concludes. However, it ends on a positive note: “We are forecasting the first increase in sales growth in the past four years and expect 2014 fine wine sales to fall in a range of 6%-10% growth.”
To see the full SVB report, visit http://www.svb.com/wine-report.
Sustainable Ag Expo Highlights Sustainable Practices and Certification
Ninth annual conference draws record attendance
By Ted Rieger
November 21, 2013
A panel of ag professionals and grapegrowers discussed the benefits of sustainable practices and certification programs – environmental, economic, human, operational and regulatory – at the Vineyard Team’s 2013 Sustainable Ag Expo, held Nov. 18 in San Luis Obispo, Calif. According to Vineyard Team Executive Director Kris Beal, this year’s event had a record attendance of nearly 500 grapegrowers and agricultural managers, and a sold-out trade show with 60 exhibitors.
Rich Smith, owner and manager of Paraiso Vineyards in Monterey County and a founding member of the Vineyard Team in 1994, cited decision-making and operational benefits of sustainable farming programs. Smith began planting a 400-acre vineyard estate in the Santa Lucia Highlands in 1973, that now produces Paraiso Vineyard wines labeled as SIP Certified (Sustainable in Practice), the certification program managed by the Vineyard Team. Paraiso has been SIP Certified since 2008, which requires achieving and documenting 40 sustainable requirements.
Smith said the Vineyard Team has spent more than 15 years putting together credible science-based training programs, management protocols and a sustainable certification program with third-party verification. “Our goal with these programs and protocols is not to tell people what to do, but to give them tools to make better decisions and to make the right decisions for their particular farm operations,” Smith explained.
“The basic premise of the Vineyard Team’s programs has been so we can do a better job for ourselves, and SIP helps us verify we’re doing a better job than last year,” Smith observed. Based on science and best management practices, SIP offers growers options, and requires regular annual evaluation with third-party verification. As an example, Smith said using beneficial insects is an option for pest control, and it is regularly looked at with updated information. “You can consider and ask yourself every year if that is something that will fit into (your) program,” Smith said. “Being knowledgeable is part of what makes you a sustainable farmer,” he noted.
Alluding to the issue of “greenwashing,” Smith said, “Using sustainability as a buzzword for marketing purposes can come back to bite you if you’re not practicing it properly.” He stressed the importance of third-party verification for sustainable certification when dealing with the larger community. “People may believe you the first time, but the second time, you better have some proof,” Smith said.
Sustainability and the Regulatory Environment
Since the Vineyard Team established its first, self-assessment Positive Points System in 1996, it has been recognized favorably in the larger community and by regulatory agencies, receiving grants and awards from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the California Department of Food and Agriculture, and the California Department of Pesticide Regulation. One early benefit of Positive Points for Vineyard Team members was the ability to be included in an Ag Waiver for certain requirements of the Central Coast Regional Water Quality Control Board.
Smith acknowledged current groundwater decline and supply issues facing growers and residents in the Paso Robles Groundwater Basin (the subject of another Expo conference session). He believes it will take long-term water engineering and management solutions to solve the problem. Vineyard Team members’ history of cooperation, and their sustainable practices and knowledge can help them address issues and adapt to challenges.
“The better the job we do in our day-to-day operations, the more it reduces the chance of having regulations imposed upon us, and it puts us in a better position to negotiate on the regulations that may be proposed,” Smith noted. “There are good reasons to be proactive in sustainability, and it’s up to us to tell our story.”
Voicing a frustration, Smith observed, “Everybody wants us to be sustainable, but nobody wants to pay for it.” Even so, he added, there are other benefits. “I’m a sustainable farmer because it enables our vineyards to be managed better, and it provides us better profitability, and that’s without anyone paying a premium for our products based on SIP certification.”
Another panelist, Kirk Story of Stockman’s Energy and Water, discussed the economic benefits of sustainable initiatives to improve farm energy efficiency, such as more efficient irrigation pump systems, and utilizing renewable energy sources. “Excess equals waste,” Story said. “Our premise is that waste has dollar value, and if we target waste, we turn that liability into an asset,” he said. Another speaker, John Petroff of Taylor Farms in Salinas, which packages and distributes fresh lettuce products, discussed how retailers, including the company’s largest customer Walmart, now demand supply chain sustainable practices in the production, packaging and transport of farm products to market.
Based in Atascadero, the Vineyard Team serves primarily Central Coast vineyards and wineries in Monterey, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties, but also has SIP Certified operations in Sonoma and Napa counties. More than 500,000 cases of wine bear the SIP Certification seal, produced from 30,000 acres of California vineyards.
Wine Tourism Conference Focuses on Wine and Food Travel
Third annual conference aims to help wineries attract and engage visitors
By Susan G. Hauser
November 19, 2013
The third annual Wine Tourism Conference, held Nov. 13-15 in Portland, Ore., featured a surprise speaker as the conference got underway: Oregon Governor John Kitzhaber. As Kitzhaber put it, wine tourism offers “a sense of place in bottles” that inspires visitors to use their travel dollars to invest in local economies.
Subsequent speakers referred to the governor’s appearance as proof of the fact that wine tourism is a big deal. “Wine tourism is growing in importance,” said speaker Laura Mandala of Mandala Research. “That’s why we had the governor here.”
The conference speakers addressed a number of topics designed to help participants take advantage of the growing numbers of tourists whose motivation to travel is a love of food and wine. Expert advice was offered in topics ranging from mastering social media in order to attract visitors, to forming strategic partnerships with other businesses and associations to create events and attractions that can turn visitors into enthusiastic brand ambassadors.
Keynote speaker Linda Murphy, columns editor for Vineyard & Winery Management magazine, shared some findings from her book, “American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United States.” Work on the next edition of the 2012 book, co-authored with Jancis Robinson, has already begun.
State by state, Murphy talked about the growing numbers of wineries and their appeal to tourists. Visitors, she said, are looking for that “sense of place in bottles,” mentioned by Gov. Kitzhaber, and because of that it’s important to be authentic and not try to be something you’re not. To illustrate that, she spoke of Maui’s Winery, in Hawaii, which first tried making wine from grapes but succeeded only after using what was already growing there – pineapples – and now is a huge tourist draw for its sparkling and semi-dry pineapple wines. Visitors tend to buy a lot of the distinctive wine to take home as gifts and souvenirs.
Similarly, some successful South Dakota wineries not only focused on the local agricultural product – berries – but were astute enough to choose locations near the state’s biggest tourist attractions, Mount Rushmore and the Black Hills. What those Maui and South Dakota wineries are doing is sharing their pride of place, said Murphy, and that involves so much more than just what they pour.
“I think how tourists are treated is more important that what’s in a glass,” Murphy said. She encouraged wineries to extend sincere and authentic hospitality. “Tell your story, be warm, and educate in a comfortable way, not a preachy way.”
The final day of the conference got off to a rousing start as Lisa Mattson, communications director for Jordan Vineyard & Winery in Healdsburg, Calif., played the parody music video she created for Jordan, “Blurred Vines,” based on the hit song, “Blurred Lines.” It was just one example of the fun and innovative approaches Mattson has developed for introducing more people to Jordan’s wines.
She and Camron King, the executive director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, offered a presentation on Virtual Tourism: Promoting Outside Your Region. Their advice can be distilled into two words: authenticity and consistency. Authenticity comes from the winery culture that is demonstrated in the brand and every communication that goes out under that brand. Consistency comes from making sure that every representation of the company puts forth the same image and message.
Consistency also means making sure i’s are dotted and t’s are crossed. In digital parlance, that means making sure your URLs are correct, your links work and your tags are informative and optimized. Mattson said she keeps a spreadsheet of Jordan’s web presence, noting tweets, Yelp reviews, Facebook and blog posts and making sure that correct information about the winery is accessible in all those places.
Some of King and Mattson’s specific suggestions included:
- Create a personality for your brand with an appealing spokesperson, who appears in entertaining and informative videos about the wine, food, region, history, etc.
- Hold blogger tastings by sending samples to particular wine bloggers and getting online with them at a specific time so they can tweet and blog about the wines.
- Identify photo opportunities for winery visitors with signage, so they’ll know the best places to point their cameras and you know they’ll be sharing great shots.
- Invest in a good camera and make sure the photos on your website make people want to be there. Include some “behind the scenes” photos to make website visitors feel like insiders.
- Be sure your info is accessible on mobile phones.
For the presentation on Strategic Partnerships and Why They Are Important, John Cooper and Michele Boyer offered specific examples of how they’ve made partnerships work. Cooper, president and CEO of the Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau, told how the visitor center partnered with the local humane society to create a popular “wine doggies” event.
Boyer, owner of M&B Concepts, told of partnerships she forged on behalf of wineries with Kimpton Hotels and Nordstrom. Both the hotel company and the nationwide department store were happy to include wine in their customer loyalty programs. In addition to increased sales for the winery, the partnerships led to an increase in wine club memberships.
“Look for nontraditional partners,” Boyer advised. For example, she suggested partnering with local sports arenas, where fine wines are a perk for suite owners.
In 2014 the Wine Tourism Conference returns to California, where it will be held Nov. 12-14 in Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County.
Taste of Sonoma
Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction Shatters Record
2013 auction brings in $1.4 million for local charities
September 3, 2013
Sonoma County, Calif. – More than $1.4 million was raised at the Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction at Chateau St. Jean on Sunday, Sept. 1, more than doubling the auction’s income from 2012 and setting a new record. The auction is part of Sonoma Wine Country Weekend, Sonoma County’s top charitable fundraising event, held annually over Labor Day Weekend.
With a Brazilian theme of “Sonoma Samba,” the auction drew 600 attendees. Auctioneer David Reynolds urged the crowd to bid high while competing for 35 lots, ranging from sought-after wines to international travel.
The day’s largest-grossing lot was the first annual “Fund the Future,” which raised $691,250 for childhood literacy and reading programs. This was the highest-grossing lot in the auction’s 21-year history. Funds will be divided evenly between the Sonoma Valley Education Foundation’s Summer Reading Academy, Schools of Hope (United Way of the Wine Country) and Pasitos Playgroups (Community Action Partnership).
Joe Anderson of Benovia Winery; the Gallo Family; and Katie Jackson of Jackson Family Wines each donated $75,000 to Fund the Future, and Tom Klein, owner of Rodney Strong Wine Estates, made a $150,000 commitment with a $50,000 bid toward the initiative each year for this and the next two years.
Other top lots included the Gallo Family and MacMurray Ranch Barn Dance BBQ lot that sold for $125,000; the Buena Vista/DeLoach and Boisset Family Wines Thermador Kitchen and Dinner Party with Jean-Charles Boisset lot that sold for $55,000; and the Kosta Brown World Cup Soccer Trip to Brazil lot that sold for $44,000.
In addition to more than doubling the results of last year’s auction, gross proceeds are expected to exceed $2.5 million for the entire Sonoma Wine Country Weekend once final tallies are calculated. This is an increase of more than $1 million over last year.
“Today was a celebration for the entire county. It was an inspiration to all of our vintners and growers in the wine industry, and a step in the right direction for the future of our children in Sonoma County,” said Honore Comfort of Sonoma County Vintners. “The success of this weekend was a result of the entire Sonoma County wine and grower community coming together with tremendous support. They made it happen.”
Produced by the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance and the Sonoma County Vintners, the 2013 Sonoma Wine Country Weekend also included Taste of Sonoma at MacMurray Ranch, which sold out at 2,500 attendees this year, and Sonoma Starlight at Francis Ford Coppola Winery. Winery lunch and dinner events were also held at various Sonoma County locations throughout the weekend.
For those who were unable to attend the auction but would still like to participate, an online auction of additional lots is open for bidding through Sept. 6 at www.biddingforgood.com/sonomawinecountryweekend.
Jim Wolpert Receives ASEV Merit Award
UC Davis viticulturist voices concern about the future of extension
By Ted Rieger
June 27, 2013
Dr. Jim Wolpert, extension viticulture specialist emeritus from UC Davis, received the American Society for Enology and Viticulture (ASEV) Merit Award at the society’s 64th annual national conference in Monterey June 27. The Merit Award is ASEV’s highest honor, presented annually to an individual who has contributed significantly to the advancement of enology and viticulture, or to ASEV.
While the award presentation celebrated Wolpert’s career accomplishments and contributions to the industry, it was tempered by his comments regarding the uncertain future for the UC Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system.
In his speech, Wolpert noted that in 1986, the number of UCCE farm advisors statewide totaled 425. Today they number only about 220. He cited competition in the state budget with other critical programs as one reason for the decline in extension program funding. Funding cuts have significantly hit county viticulture farm advisors, who are now fewer and farther between. Today, one advisor commonly covers multiple counties. When a neighboring county advisor quits or retires, the next closest advisor is asked to take on more territory, and sometimes advise on other crops in addition to grapes.
“The classic line is, ‘Do the best you can,’” Wolpert said.
Possible future responses, he added, include: industry funding for extension positions (something the table grape industry did recently in the San Joaquin Valley), the use of more consultants by growers, and wine companies utilizing more grower-relations representatives.
He cited electronic media, e-mail and social media as methods some advisors use to communicate more often to more people today, but said, “You’ve got to be face-to-face with the growers at some point, it’s a two-way information flow. So consider what will happen if you lose those farm advisors.” Wolpert admitted, “I know this is a downer for a talk, but you need to know about this. You can see the future coming. As long as you are forewarned, hopefully you are also forearmed.”
A native of Indiana, Wolpert received his bachelor of science degree in horticulture from Purdue University, and received his master’s degree and Ph.D from Michigan State University. He began at UC Davis in the Pomology Department in 1983, then joined the Department of Viticulture and Enology in 1985. He was soon involved in a major industry issue, the emergence of phylloxera on AxR 1 rootstock. He worked on evaluating alternative rootstocks and advising growers on choices, leading to a major vineyard replanting period in California.
Wolpert served as V& E Department chair for 10 years during a critical time in the department’s history, as it planned new facilities for the Robert Mondavi Institute that now includes modern research labs, new classrooms and a state-of-the art teaching and research winery. Wolpert is credited by colleagues for his fundraising skills and his leadership in the development of the new facilities.
He downplayed his part, citing other department faculty for their contributions. “We had to come together as a team to get the job done,” Wolpert said, “which meant putting personal agendas aside, and it was a wonderful time.”
Wolpert cited several colleagues and mentors during his career, specifically his graduate advisor at Michigan State University, Dr. Stan Howell, who he described as, “my mentor and tormentor.” Howell inspired and encouraged Wolpert at a time of personal doubt about whether or not to stay in graduate school. Howell also introduced him to viticulture research.
Much of Wolpert’s career research focused on the evaluation of rootstocks, clones and alternative wine grape varieties for California vineyards. He led vineyard trials at the UC Oakville Experimental Station for the Heritage Zinfandel Project after traveling throughout California collecting plant material from historic old vine zinfandel vineyards. He started the Petite Sirah Heritage Block at UC Davis, and one of his last major projects was starting trials at the UC Kearney Agricultural Center in Fresno County to evaluate alternative wine grape varieties for the San Joaquin Valley.
He served as ASEV president in 1996-97 and was a co-organizer of numerous symposia. In July 2012, he received the ASEV Eastern Section Outstanding Achievement Award.
Wolpert officially retired from UC Davis in January 2013 and recently moved to Hermann, Missouri.
A fan of using famous quotations in his talks, Wolpert ended with one from Robert Mondavi, applicable to his own career: “If you find a job you love, you’ll never work a day in your life.”
Response to the issue of UC Cooperative Extension cuts by Barbara Allen-Diaz, vice president of UC Agriculture & Natural Resources:
“…The UC Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources remains committed to addressing issues critical to the industry. We are currently interviewing candidates for two UC Cooperative Extension viticulture advisor positions. One is a permanent UC-funded career position and the other is a six-year position funded by the California Table Grape Commission. In the near future, the recruitment for a Cooperative Extension specialist in wine grape viticulture will commence. In addition to these crop-specific advisors, UC Agriculture and Natural Resources has invested in a strong complement of Cooperative Extension advisors and specialists with diverse expertise in fields such as pest management, plant disease, water management, and other disciplines statewide that support this important industry.
Budget cuts and retirements over the past decade have significantly reduced the numbers of UC Cooperative Extension advisors and specialists, but we have maintained our core by identifying priority positions, strategically using state funds and seeking industry support.
We are committed to rebuilding UC Cooperative Extension’s research and extension strength. Between the positions recently filled and those under recruitment, we are on track to hire more than 70 Cooperative Extension advisors and specialists between 2012 and the fall of 2014 statewide. Since the beginning of 2012, we have successfully recruited for and hired almost 30 Cooperative Extension advisors and specialists across the state.
As the state’s economy recovers, our budget has stabilized and UC Cooperative Extension is on the rise. With our futures intertwined, we rely on our industry partners for their continued advocacy and support to ensure that Cooperative Extension funding grows to help meet the needs of Californians.”
Press Democrat North Coast Wine Challenge Highlights Region’s Top Wines
Beaulieu Vineyard Tapestry Reserve 2009 Named ‘Best of the Best’
Vineyard & Winery Management (V&WM) and The Press Democrat have concluded the first Press Democrat North Coast Wine Challenge, held May 29 and 30 at the Sonoma Wine Country Hilton in Santa Rosa, Calif. The new wine competition focused exclusively on wines produced in North Coast AVAs, including those in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Lake, Marin and Solano counties.
The wine named as “Best of the Best” from a field of nearly 1,000 entries was the Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2009, a red Bordeaux blend.
In keeping with the competition theme, judges represented the best of the North Coast’s wine professionals, including sommeliers, winemakers, retailers and media. To bring a variety of perspectives to the judging, each three-person panel included a winemaker, a sommelier or retailer and a member of the media.
The North Coast Wine Challenge introduced a new approach to award designations, according to Debra Del Fiorentino, V&WM’s director of wine competitions. “Wines were designated the ranking of Best of Class by Category, Best of County, and ultimately, the Best of the Best as the top award.”
In addition to awarding medals, panels submitted point scores for gold medal wines, based on the 100-point scale. A total of 132 wines received gold medals.
Chief Judge Daryl Groom, owner/winemaker for Groom Wines in Healdsburg, Calif., led the event in its inaugural year. “We had a fantastic first event and I could not be happier with the judging and the results,” he said. “Where else in the world do you get to taste that many absolutely top notch wines of such diversity, except on the North Coast of California? Picking the ultimate winners was tough, but some really stunning wines shone through.”
“We live and work in the heart of the leading quality wine region in the country and The Press Democrat is committed to bringing new focus and attention to our great wines,” said Steve Falk, CEO of Sonoma Media Investments, parent company of The Press Democrat.
Judging event sponsors included Wine Industry Network, Penta Water, Wine Country Organics, Wine Country Shipping, Alsco, Graber Olives, Sonoma Wine Country Hilton, Costeaux French Bakery, Vino Chapeau, Corks Restaurant, Big River Coffee Company, Lagunitas Brewing Company, Sonoma Chocolatiers, Oliver’s Market, Clover Stornetta Farms, Spring Hill Jersey Cheese, Top Nest Designs, Screamin’ Mimi’s and Montgomery Village Shopping Center.
The Press Democrat will host a public tasting July 14 featuring a selection of medal-winning wines from the competition. For details about the public tasting, a list of competition judges and complete results visit www.northcoastwinechallenge.com.
BEST OF THE BEST
Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2009 ($60.99)
BEST OF COUNTY AWARDS
Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2009 ($60.99)
SONOMA (three-way tie):
- Sivas-Sonoma Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($22)
- Kokomo Dry Creek Valley Grenache Rosé, Pauline’s Vineyard, 2012 ($22)
- Trombetta Family Wines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Gap’s Crown Vineyard, 2011 ($58)
Navarro Vineyards Anderson Valley Late Harvest Gewürztraminer 2012 ($58)
Shed Horn Cellars Lake County Non Typical Red Wine 2010 ($25)
De Loach Vineyards Marin County Pinot Noir 2010 ($18)
GrapeHeart Vineyards “The Beat” Red Blend 2010 ($69)
BEST OF CLASS AWARDS
BEST SPARKLING: Breathless Wines North Coast Brut NV ($25)
BEST WHITE: Sivas-Sonoma Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($22)
BEST ROSE: Kokomo Dry Creek Valley Grenache Rosé, Pauline’s Vineyard, 2012 ($22)
BEST RED: Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2009 ($60.99)
BEST DESSERT: Navarro Vineyards Anderson Valley Late Harvest Gewürztraminer 2012 ($58)
Scenes from Wineries Unlimited 2013
By Marguerite Thomas, Eastern Correspondent, Vineyard & Winery Management
From barrels to bottles to lip balm, anything – everything – a person might desire for a winery, vineyard or tasting room was on display at the 37th Wineries Unlimited Trade Show & Conference, held in Richmond, Va., March 12-15.
I tried to see it all, from the Aaqua Tools barrel and tank washers to the Zemplén Hungarian oak barrels. There was so much to take in, so many new as well as familiar objects to scrutinize that I may have missed a few exhibits. Did I somehow drift by the Tenax display of deer fencing and bird netting? Did I miss Picnic Plus’ wine bags, cheese boards and totes? Well, there was no time for additional perusing now: Gary Finnan’s “10 for 1” session on Tasting Room Design was about to begin.
Short of cloning oneself there’s no way to see, listen to and participate in every one of the overlapping conference sessions. Most attendees approach the conference with focused interests and needs, but from a writer’s, rather than a vintner’s, point of view many topics were tempting. For me, it was like sampling a smorgasbord of educational, informative and thought-provoking issues relating to enology, viticulture and marketing.
At the “10 Steps to Better PR” session Paul Wagner provided an abundance of practical advice which ranged from relatively simple suggestions – put your winery phone number on your label – to more subtle recommendations such as: Know where the market is going and aim your programs at the future, not the past.
In another session, PR yielded to, well, yields as Dr. Sara Spayd addressed the provocative question of whether the popular belief that lower yields make for better wine is always true. Acknowledging that growers and winemakers have traditionally held differing views on the matter, Spayd tackled the debate by sharing research results from a project that examined (among many other things) the effect of row spacing on cabernet sauvignon yield by comparing 6-, 8-, 10- and 12-foot row spacing; yield and fruit consequences of very high shoot density; and undesirable effects of deep shade. “Next time you enjoy a truly superb wine,” she concluded, “you know you are drinking wine made from well-cared-for grapes of very low yield (1.5 - 2.5 tons/acre).”
Elizabeth Slater’s discussion on social media was a wakeup call to those of us who haven’t been as diligent as we should about keeping up with the multitude of online professional opportunities available to us. But instead of making us feel guiltier than we already do about our neglectful relationship with the time-devouring demands of Facebook, Twitter and their kin, this session was encouraging rather than dispiriting. Slater clarified some of the differences between the various options, among them the fact that Twitter is mainly used by older adults (more male than female) and is widely used in the wine industry; that the most popular pins in Pinterest (where female users dominate) are about food and drink; that Skype can be used very effectively by wineries to conduct wine tastings. While she acknowledged that social media is constantly changing, and that keeping up with it demands endless amounts of time, Slater laid out various strategies for capitalizing on its potential. She stressed that “savvy use of social media can help you sell more wine and bring people to your winery. Social media is a big deal!”
In Gary Finnan’s informal round-table session on tasting room design, a Virginia vintner sought advice about the best way to refurbish the space his winery had outgrown over the past decade. The owners of a relatively new winery in Florida were looking for design suggestions, while a family from Georgia needed advice on expanding their tasting room to better accommodate the growing number of people visiting the winery. Along with much helpful input from some of the attendees, Finnan’s advice was generally creative and practical. His list of 20 specific recommendations covered everything from “Hide the dishwasher/sink/storage” to “Review your message, product, people and place annually.”
The keynote speaker at the Wine & Dine Gala was Eric Trump, executive vice president of development acquisitions for Trump Winery in Charlottesville, Virginia. In his upbeat address, Trump emphasized that Virginia wine country is blessed in a number of ways. “We have the best location in the world,” he said. “We have the quality and the incredible history. We have diversity, and we have consumers who are smarter than they’ve ever been in history.” It was a confident and optimistic message – a fitting finale, perhaps, to Wineries Unlimited 2013.
Sonoma Vintners Present $453,500 to Local Charities
Record-breaking Sonoma Wine Country Weekend supports Boys & Girls Clubs
A total of $483,500 in proceeds from Sonoma Wine Country Weekend, the annual Labor Day Weekend collection of wine and food events jointly produced by the Sonoma County Vintners and the Sonoma Valley Vintners and Growers Alliance, was distributed to 32 Sonoma County beneficiaries on March 1st at St. Francis Winery and Vineyards in Sonoma Valley.
Two of the primary beneficiaries, the Boys & Girls Clubs of Sonoma Valley and Boys & Girls Clubs of Central Sonoma County, received grants that totaled $264,000 raised from the “Fund-A-Need” lot at the 2012 Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction, one of Sonoma Wine Country Weekend’s flagship events. The balance of funds was disbursed through the Sonoma Valley Vintners and Growers Foundation and the Sonoma County Vintners Foundation in small grants to local organizations across Sonoma County, from Petaluma to Geyserville, from Guerneville to Sonoma.
“Our goal is to support local groups that reflect our little towns, and multiply their efforts by supporting those in need while at the same time enriching the lives and neighborhoods of those engaged in helping,” said Sonoma County Vintners Foundation President Dan Goldfield. “The Wine Country Weekend grants don’t reflect the wine community giving anything away, but only doing our best to be involved in the culture that nurtures us, and of which we are a part.”
Including the charitable grants, the event generates more than $830,000 that supports the community through local non-profit organizations. Of the event’s $1.7 million gross revenue, organizers noted that with the Sonoma County organizations and businesses used to produce Sonoma Wine Country Weekend, approximately 90% of the total event revenue is returned to the Sonoma County economy. As the tourism dollars generated by the event are added to the equation, Sonoma Wine Country Weekend creates exponentially more impact.
Over the years, the Sonoma Valley Vintners and Growers Foundation and Sonoma County Vintners Foundation have raised a cumulative total of more than $11 million for Sonoma County’s non-profit organizations. The 2013 Sonoma Wine Country Weekend is set for Labor Day Weekend, Aug. 30-Sept. 1, 2013. For more information visit www.sonomawinecountryweekend.com.
Front Group, Sonoma Wine Country Weekend representatives (left to right): Maureen Cottingham, Cathleen Gorham, Tom Menzies, Squire Fridell, Danny Fay, Dan Goldfield and Mike Pucci, Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance Board; Andrew Bottene, SWCW Executive Sponsor TricorBraun WinePak; and Sara Cummings, Sonoma County Vintners. Back Group, Sonoma Wine Country Weekend beneficiaries
Photo by Taylor Serres